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Bead from a Bi Cone Bead

Beaded animals . Bead a model by beading with bicone beads. Inspired by  creatures and giraffe. Creation posted b… | Beaded animals, Seed bead  crafts, Beaded craftsHaving like size beads is good, so begin by measuring clay for beads. Using a tube bead roller top, roll some lengths of clay. Pick a color that will end up being a center color in your swirled bead.
Using a measuring guide, ruler with raised increments, or other clay marking tool, impress lines in the tube of clay. Now you have reference points to cut specific amounts of clay to keep beads at a consistent size.
Hand roll the measured amounts of clay.
Roll two tubes of contrasting color, lay them side by side. At this point you can roll over them a bit with an acrylic rod, to get them to stick together.

Run the tubes of clay through the pasta machine. Fold in half lengthwise, and run through the pasta machine, folded edge first. Repeat this until you like the appearance of the blending in the center.
When you like the blending, roll the blend thin. Now you are ready to cut circles out of the blend as shown and apply them to either side of the hand rolled ball.
With the circles of color attached, place the roller top over the clay as shown, with the base clay color in the center.
Begin making a circular motion with the roller top. Continue rolling until the colors swirl in an appealing pattern. Keep the circular motions going in the same direction. The tilt of the roller top, the pressure applied and the circumference of the circular motion all can have an effect on the bead, so if you haven’t done this have some fun getting the feel and practicing. Well worth your time, guaranteed to please!
Once you’ve gotten the swirl you like, you can use the roller top to apply pressure to change the shape of your bead. The two center beads in this picture were made rectangular in shap, simply by putting pressure on one sice with the roller top. Fun!!!!

How to Make a Lentil Bead from a Bicone Bead

Desiree's HowTo make Lentil Swirled BeadsShape a Bi-Cone bead. In this sample the bead was formed using the Bi-cone bead roller, the largest size. To swirl color, place some contrasting color over the bead from point to point. Set it in the base of the bead roller and travel it to the far end. Pick the bead up and without turning it place it back in the base (at the end) and re-roll it in the same direction. Repeat this until you like the design on the bead.
Set the bead point down on your work surface. Place a flat sheet of Plexiglas or a tube bead roller top over the bead. A Tube bead roller top would work nicely for this. Herinafter the reference will be “tool”.
Rotate the tool ovwer the bead in a circular motion. Imagine the point of the bead against the work surface as an axis, that will stay turning in the same spot. The things that will affect the shape the bead takes on are downward pressure, tilt of the tool, and how wid the circular motion. If you’ve never done this, practice a bit. It is a “feel” thing, but like riding a bike. Once you have it, it will stay with you.
Pierce through your lentil shape. If the tool is placed over the bead towards one edge, the bead can be pierced from the side while under the tool to prevent finger prints.

How to make a Teardrop or Cone Shaped Bead

Making a Cone/ Teardrop paper bead - YouTubeMake a pair of earrings with ease!
Begin by determining the amount of clay to use for the size bead you wish to roll. I use one of our cutters in clay that has been rolled through a pasta machine, and experiment until I have a size I like. Then I can repeat the size quickly and easily.
Hand roll the measured clay into a ball. The ball shape will become cone shaped once it is rolled. If you desire more of a teardrop shape, with a more rounded end, begin with an oval shape.
Place the roller top over the clay ball. There are two posts that elevate the roller top, and those posts should be on the edge furthest from you.
Move the roller back and forth over the clay. Continue rolling until its size and shape are pleasing to you. Over-rolling will cause it to tear apart at the lower end.
When it is the size and shape you like, you can make a mark on the roller, a line that marks the base of the bead. That will allow you to duplicate that shape, using the same amount of clay. You can use a water based marker. If a permanent marker is used, it will take 91% rubbing alcohol to remove the mark.
To make the teal circles on this bead, I measured clay with a 5mm line marker included with this set and cut on the lines. I divided each square in 1/2 (cutting diagonally). Then the small amounts of measured clay were hand rolled into a ball and placed on the brown bead.

After placing the little balls on the exposed parts of the bead, place the roller top back over the bead, at the mark. Roll the dots into circles using short strokes. If you make long strokes, the dots will become streaks – which is also very fun to do and watch! Experiment, have fun!!
Formed beads can be pierced through the side, or from bottom to top. There are many ways to embellish. Try a couple vertical lines of contrasting colored clay on a solid bead, and travel the bead in one direction. The stri

Polymer Clay Bead

140 Polymer clay technic ideas in 2021 | polymer clay, clay, polymerPress conditioned polymer clay into to top channell between the pin paths.

Using a clay blade, shave excess clay from the chamber of the roller. Cut nearly parallell with the roller top, leaving the surface of the clay flat and smooth. It is safer to hold the roller as illustrated and cut downwards away from yourself.

Press a measuring guide or ruler with raised 1/16″ increments into the clay to leave the marks impressed in the clay.
Remove the marked clay from the roller and place on your work surface.
Cut length recommended in the instructions for the roller you are working with.
This sample is pro set 2 and the pieces are 3/4 inches long.
Hand form each piece into a ball. Avoid trapping air in balls, and copress tightly. Roll to eliminate any fold lines.
Place one of the balls of clay in the center of the roller base. Put the roller top over the base. Hold the base stationery and move the top back and forth over the clay to shape the bead.

Move the bead to either end at the pin path, 1 inch from either end. The bead can be moved with the roller top to avoid fingerprints. When the bead is in the pin path, place the roller top over the base.
Line up the vertical lines on the base and top to get alingment of the roller. Enter the pin through either side. It might be best to start from the side farthest from the bead. Reinsert from other side if it doesn’t go straight through.

The Most Basic of Polymer Clay Basics

Polymer Clay Tips for Beginners - The Blue Bottle TreeThere are many good sources for basic information about polymer clay. This Polymer Clay tutorial page is meant to be a helpful start for those unfamiliar with the wonderful versatile art medium. Polymer clay artists are still finding new ways to make art with clay, and there is an endless number of techniques, projects, and possibilites with this clay! I personally believe that time spent being creative (without intention of harm) lends itself to mental, emotional and spiritual fitness. I am so grateful that polymer clay has become a part of my journey.

Conditioning Polymer Clay

Different brands of clay have a different feel right out of the package. Some clays are fairly hard feeling, some are quite soft. Regardless of how they feel right out of the package it is important to condition. As a general rule of thumb, the amount of manipulation to condition is gauged by the amount of manipulation it takes to blend two different colors into one color. Conditioning can be achieved by hand, or using a pasta machine.

The first Fimo Classic clay I purchased I ended up cutting it into small bits, then placing it in a pulsing small food chopper with some Quick Mix. Although more difficult to condition than soft clays, it enjoys a reputation as an excellent clay to cane with.

Fimo Soft clay, is much easier to condition.

Cernit clay was easy for me to condition right out of the package, running slices through a pasta machine. If hand conditioning, just remember the two colors into one rule.

The same was true of Premo Clay.

I’ve used a conditioning tip by Mike Wasmer for Kato Clay, and that is using a rubber mallet and my basement floor! Kato clay likes to be compressed even before running through the pasta machine and the rubber mallet works well for me. I do sandwich the clay between sheets of plastic deli wrap to keep it clean. After several times folding a pounded ‘pancake’ in half and re-pounding it conditions up nicely. If you choose to condition in this manner take care to pound from the folded edge outwards, to avoid air pockets being trapped in the clay!

However you condition, try to avoid trapping air in the clay. Trapped air will become a problem for you, so best to avoid. ; When running clay through a pasta machine, place it folded edge into the rollers, or the folded edge to one side, so air has a path of escape. If you do have air pockets in clay, (they will be visible as bumps on the surface of the clay) pierce them, compress the clay with fingers to push the air out, and/or roll through a pasta machine from the thickest setting to a much thinner setting. The carefully fold and roll through to a wider setting. Air trapped in a bead can lead to cracked beads – or any other polymer clay item.

Especially while caning, it is desirable to have all clay colors used be the same consistency. Even among brands I’ve not found all colors to be created equally! If polymer clay is too soft and pliable, it can be rolled out and placed between two layers of unprinted paper. Left overnight, the clay will absorb some of the plasticiser. If the clay is too stiff, there are products available to help soften it. I personally add some translucent clay of the same brand. Translucent clays seem to be the softest of the clays offered by all the manufacturers.
Curing Polymer Clay

Polymer clay is man-made, requiring heat to cure (harden). Each of the clay manufacturers prints the recommended curing temperature on the packaging. Following the recommended curing temperature is important, an oven thermometer is a good investment. If different brands of clay are mixed, cure at the one with the lower temperature, and cure for a longer period of time.

If the temperature gets too high, the clay will char, the fumes released are not good. If the temperature is too low, it will not fully cure and there will be lack of stability of the piece. Time for curing averages 20 minutes per 1/4 Inch of thickness, as a general rule.

A dedicated toaster or convection oven is a good investment. A home oven can be used, many recommend using a couple of liked size pans to create an oven in the oven. A pan can be used and covered with aluminum foil as well. Simply place your work in the bottom pan, invert one of the same size and place on top. Some metal office clips can be used to clamp the two pans together. That will contain any by products of curing clay confined. Once any object is used for polymer clay it should then be dedicated to clay only.

Because Polymer clay hardens in heat, do not leave it in your car during warm temperature months. Never put polymer clay in a microwave oven.

Polymer Clay Storage

One of the things I love best about polymer clay is that it has a long shelf life. I don’t have to worry about it getting dry or hard before I’m ready for that to happen. The chemical make up of polymer clay prevents it from being user friendly with some other plastics. As an example, it will eat holes in Styrofoam. I personally love the plastic deli wrap sheets I purchased from my local grocery store butcher. I sometimes use a dedicated container for a project, using only deli sheets to separate colors all in the same box. Canes can be wrapped in plastic wrap or wax paper, and stored in a protected container. There are times when I’ve left some clay on my work area, but since I have a cat, I simply cover everything I’ve left out with a cloth. I keep a dedicated container for scrap clay, and I just drop it in without pressing together. I’ve gone through that later and separated into color families, and have come up with some awesome colors. Some clays have glitter in them, or fibers that are included to give them a stone look. I do not include those in my dedicated scrap contained. The fibers are not good if I want to use my scrap for caning. There is just no reason not to use uncured polymer clay in one way or another! There really are countless ways.

Speaking of Color

I highly recommend to anyone sufficiently smitten’ with polymer clay to experiment with mixing colors. Using primaries red, yellow and blue, plus white to lighten, black to darken you can play for days!! Or, like colors used in ink jet printers, you can choose Cyan, Magenta, and yellow clays, borrowing from the CYMK (K being black) . Writing formulas on color samples will be a great reference when you wish to re-create a mixed color.